Picture this: my parents and I on gimpy bikes jostling along a narrow path full of roots, very fresh piles of horse merde, and overgrown stinging nettles. Between the clunking noise of my dad’s bike – which had a problem with the gears or chain – and my mom periodically warning us by yelling out, “Horse poop!” or “Stinging nettles!” as my teeth rattled in my brain, it was all I could do to keep from dissolving into maniacal laughter.
The bikes and the itinerary along the Cher river, which is a tributary of the Loire, had been part of the otherwise wonderful package offered to us by the Château de Nitray. Five (5!) euros gets you a visit of the château grounds including the extensive outbuildings, a bike rental, and a wine tasting, so I suppose that we can forgive them for the lamentable state of the bikes and the suggested bike path because everything else was just perfect. Besides, the bike debacle was pretty funny in retrospect.
The Château de Nitray, which dates back to the 16th century, has passed through the hands of 17 families over the centuries and since 1955, belongs to the Count and Countess de l’Espinay. Four generations continue to live in the château and run the family business, which includes keeping up the grounds and producing wine. As opposed to many other châteaux that one might visit, what is so fun about the Château de Nitray is that you really get the feeling that the property was, and continues to be, its own little farm society. The owners may be of noble birth, but that doesn’t stop Daddy Count from driving tractors through the courtyard and greeting guests along the way!
And Grandpa Count doesn’t mess around when it comes to tasting their wines; he simply brings you the bottles, briefly describes each one, and then lets you have at it and sip at your own pace. The Sauvignon was particularly amazing (and I don’t usually like white wines). At 5 to 7 euros a bottle, it’s hard to resist filling up the trunk!
The location is pretty darn convenient too: right smack in between Chenonceaux (the stunning castle built OVER the river) and Amboise (a picturesque city with so many layers of history that it makes your brain hurt). So, if you ever find yourself in the neighborhood, don’t miss out on this little gem… just don’t take them up on their bike offer. ;)
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