They say that one of the primary differences between Americans and Europeans is that to Americans, 200 years is a long time, whereas to Europeans, 200 miles is a long distance. While doing dissertation research in Poitiers three years ago, I lived in the heart of the historic center of the city with a host family. I had lived in their home for SIX MONTHS before one of the family members casually mentioned that there were GALLO-ROMAN RUINS in the cave under the house. Needless to say, I nearly broke my neck running to the cave entrance in the garden and rushing down the spiral staircase. Sure enough, several flights of stairs opened up into a series of huge caves in which I could see the traces of former doorways and rooms. Now call me weird, but if I had Gallo-Roman ruins under my house, I would TELL people about them. When I shared this sentiment with the homeowner, he just shrugged in that typically French way and replied, “Everyone in Poitiers has old caves.”
Since then, I have grown slightly more accustomed to this matter-of-fact approach to old things and no longer verbally express my delight at every random standing stone and castle. That being said, sometimes I just can’t contain myself.
This year for my mother-in-law’s birthday, Nico and I decided to kidnap her for a daytrip to visit a couple lesser-known chateaux in the Loire Valley. So, yesterday morning, the three of us piled into the car and an hour and a half of small, country roads later, we pulled into the small, medieval town of Loches (http://www.ville-loches.fr/discover-loches-article-9-0-83.html). The word loches is also the vulgar equivalent of “boobs” so you can imagine that rather crude and immature puns abounded as we wound our way through the narrow streets up to the perched royal city. For 8.50 euros per person, we spent the next couple of hours exploring the castle (in which Joan of Arc had a little pow wow with Charles VII in 1429) and the huge dungeon, which dates to around the year 1000 AD and is one of the most well-preserved in Europe from the era. By the time we finished exploring the dungeon’s numerous nooks and crannies, it was noon and time to find some lunch. After a very “authentic” lunch in a small local restaurant (the kind in which the cheese plate is passed from table to table), we drove a few miles through the forest to Montpoupon (http://www.montpoupon.com/?lang=en). The chateau in itself is very well-done, furnished and complete with painted ceiling beams that date back to the 16th century.
In addition to the castle, however, the 9 euro ticket also includes access to the grounds and the Hunting Museum, which turned out to be huge – 30 rooms throughout the former stable complex dedicated to various aspects of the hunt, from the tack rooms to a recreated taxidermy shop. I’m not even a hunting aficionado and found the museum impressive!
We may not have Gallo-Roman ruins under our house (at least that we know of), but being able to pop over to any of the hundreds of chateaux in the Loire Valley isn't too shabby either. We plan to go back soon and explore the extensive bike paths in the region. After all, the nearest Loire chateau is only 60 miles away, and that's not far at all, even by European standards.
